Bierzo D.O., Castilla y León, Spain
85% Mencía, 5% other red varieties including Alicante Bouschet, Gran Negro, Pan y Carne and Negreda; 10% local white varieties including Jerez and Valenciana.
Pétalos comes from Descendientes de J. Palacios, the Bierzo estate founded in 1999 by Álvaro Palacios and his nephew, Ricardo Pérez Palacios. Ricardo returned from studying and working in France with a strong interest in the traditions of biodynamic farming. That philosophy became central to the Bierzo project, where the emphasis is placed on old vines, traditional farming, individual vineyard sites, and allowing the landscape of Bierzo to define the wines.
The 2022 Pétalos is predominantly Mencía but, importantly, is not a varietal wine. The blend incorporates approximately 5% other indigenous and historic red varieties and 10% white grapes, a reflection of the mixed old vineyards traditionally found throughout Bierzo.
In the glass, it shows a deep ruby color, while the nose reveals an oak influence alongside blackberry and blueberry, joined by strawberry and raspberry, creating a combination of dark and red fruit. Layers of vanilla, chocolate, and cedar follow, along with tobacco, leather, and a smoky quality. Peppery spice and an underlying earthiness add another dimension as the wine opens.
On the palate, Pétalos is dry, generous, and moderately full bodied, with richness balanced by fresh acidity. The tannins have a distinctive, fine, and slightly sandy texture, providing structure without becoming overly aggressive. Blackberry and blueberry initially give the wine depth, while brighter strawberry and raspberry notes keep the fruit from becoming too dark or heavy.
The vineyards behind Pétalos extend across numerous sites in Bierzo, including Corullón and Villafranca del Bierzo, at elevations ranging from approximately 450 to 1,100 meters. The soils vary considerably, from ancient slate, quartzite, and sandstone around Corullón to clay and iron rich soils, river stones, and areas of sand elsewhere in the valley. The climate is continental with a strong Atlantic influence.
The 2022 vintage is particularly interesting because the final blend incorporates a relatively high proportion of white grapes, helping to bring additional freshness to a warm, dry growing season. The wine was fermented partly with whole clusters in oak and stainless steel vats and subsequently matured for approximately 10 months in barrels of varying sizes.
Overall, I found the 2022 Pétalos to be a robust yet energetic expression of Bierzo, rich in red and dark fruit, distinctly savory and earthy, and framed by noticeable oak and fine, dusty tannins. The combination of Mencía’s freshness with the complexity of the old mixed vineyards gives the wine considerably more character than one might expect from a benchmark bottling, particularly at such an attractive price point.