I was pleased to attend a recent wine dinner presented by Ronald Barron, retired principal trombonist of the Boston Symphony Orchestra. He is known among trombonists as “the wine guy” and among those in the wine trade as “the trombone player”. Ron curated this special evening from his personal cellar, titled “An Evening in Campania Mostly.”
The traditional regional meal featured an antipasto, followed by a primi course of Porcini Mushroom Gigli pasta, and a secondi of grilled Tagliata with broccolini. These courses were expertly paired with wines—all from the Campania region, except for the welcoming Franciacorta and dessert wine. For dessert, a classic Italian cheesecake was served alongside Le Passule, a Passito from Librandi, providing a lovely sweet and elegant finish to the evening.
Each wine was thoughtfully selected to complement the meal, highlighting the rich history and diversity of Campania’s winemaking traditions. From the elegant bubbles of Franciacorta to the bold structure of Aglianico, each pour added depth to a fine experience. As the evening unfolded, the wines revealed their unique character, sparking conversation and appreciation for their nuanced flavors and aging potential. Below are my tasting notes from this memorable event.
Ca’ del Bosco Cuvée Prestige Edizione 46
Franciacorta, Lombardy
Grape varieties
Chardonnay 79,5%, Pinot Bianco 1,5%, Pinot Nero 19%.
Vineyards of provenance
175 plots planted with Chardonnay, average age: 27 years, in the Municipalities of Erbusco,
Adro, Cazzago San Martino, Corte Franca, Iseo and Passirano.
8 plots planted with Pinot Bianco, average age: 30 years, in the Municipality of Passirano.
45 plots planted with Pinot Nero, average age: 20 years, in the Municipalities of Erbusco,
Provaglio d’Iseo and Passirano.
Blend
76% vintage wines 2021
21% reserve wines 2020
3% reserve wines 2019
The Ca’ del Bosco Cuvée Prestige Edizione 46 is not Prosecco. It is a Franciacorta, a completely different style of Italian sparkling wine. The key differences between Franciacorta and Prosecco lie in the production method, grape varieties, and region.
In my opinion, there is nothing more elegant than bubbly served from a Magnum. The Ca’ del Bosco was beautifully refined and an expressive take on Franciacorta. Bursting with exotic florals, tropical citrus, and ripe peach, it delivered a fresh yet creamy texture with fine, smooth bubbles that enhanced its elegance. The wine’s excellent acidity provided balance and structure, leading to a long, zesty lemon finish that lingered on the palate. It was delicious, showcasing both vibrancy and finesse, making it an outstanding choice for the evening.
Fiano di Avellino
Fiano, an Italian white wine grape variety, finds its primary cultivation in the Campania region of southern Italy and on the Sicilian island. Within Campania, this white wine grape, known for its moderately intense flavor, is particularly esteemed near Avellino, where the Denominazione di origine controllata e Garantita (DOCG) wine, Fiano di Avellino, is meticulously crafted. With a longstanding history in the Campanian region, this grape is believed to be the driving force behind the ancient Roman wine Apianum. Remarkably, even today, the name Apianum is permitted for use on the wine labels of the DOCG wine Fiano di Avellino.
Presented
2022 Fuedi di San Gregorio
2020 Antica Hirpinia
2019 Mastroberardino
2020 TerreDora Diapolo
The tasting of Fiano di Avellino showcased the grape’s youthful vibrancy and aging potential across different vintages and producers. The 2022 Feudi di San Gregorio exemplified Fiano’s fresh and lively character, best enjoyed young. Both the 2020 Antica Hirpinia and 2019 Mastroberardino stood out as the most enjoyable, still displaying freshness and vibrancy despite additional bottle age. In contrast, the 2020 TerreDora Diapolo was more restrained and delicate, with subtle floral notes and lower acidity, offering a gentler expression of the varietal.
Featured Wines – Mastroberardino Taurasi Ridici & Taurasi Ridici Reserva
Taurasi Radici Aglianico and its Riserva counterpart are prestigious red wines produced by Mastroberardino, one of southern Italy’s most renowned and historic wineries. Made from 100% Aglianico grapes, both wines originate from the Taurasi DOCG appellation in Campania, an area celebrated for producing some of Italy’s finest age-worthy wines. Known for their deep ruby color, firm tannic structure, and vibrant acidity, these wines offer complex aromas of dark cherry, plum, tobacco, leather, and earthy spices, often enhanced by notes of vanilla and smoke from oak aging. The Riserva, Mastroberardino’s flagship, is crafted for exceptional longevity, aging gracefully for decades while developing additional layers of dried fruit, chocolate, and earthiness. Often compared to Barolo for its aging potential, Taurasi Radici represents the power, elegance, and depth of southern Italian winemaking at its finest.
Mastroberardino Taurasi Ridici – 1904-2008-2016-2017
The 2017 vintage is approachable, displaying a silky texture with fine tannins, making it enjoyable now. The 2016 vintage, I considered the standout, is still evolving, promising even greater depth with further aging. The 2008 vintage presented a deep ruby red color with complex aromas of musky cherry, black cherries, licorice, and vanilla, highlighting its richness and maturity. Finally, the 2004 vintage was fully mature, balanced, with crispy acidity and medium tannins that are on the refined side. Lots of black fruits and tart cherries.
Mastroberardino Taurasi Ridici Reserva – 1980-1999-2006-2016
The Taurasi Radici Riserva showcases its legendary aging potential across multiple decades, reflecting the evolution of Aglianico over time. The 1980 vintage was a rare treat, displaying a terracotta-hued rim and mature notes of dark chocolate, raisins, and smoke, a testament to Mastroberardino’s commitment to crafting wines built for longevity. The 1999 vintage remains earthy and full-bodied, with cherry fruit still present, though best enjoyed now. The 2006 vintage stands out for its deep garnet color, balanced acidity, and elegant structure, with a slight textural grip adding depth. Meanwhile, the 2016 vintage is pure class, exhibiting brisk acidity and vibrant red and black fruit, showing immense promise for further aging. These tastings highlight the Taurasi Radici Riserva’s extraordinary ability to evolve while maintaining power, structure, and elegance over decades.
The evening was a true celebration of fine wine, exceptional food, and shared passion of wine through generosity of Ronald Barron. Each bottle poured told a story, not just of Campania’s rich winemaking heritage, but also of the joy that comes from savoring well-aged wines in good company.
Salud!
In Vino Veritas (In wine there is truth)